After total destruction, usually by fire, dormant structures in various trees and plants are activated to commence the regenerative process. A shoot sprouts a bough; laurels extend from expectant buds. And so, a heavy numbness seizes her limbs, thin bark closes over her breasts, her hair is turned into leaves, her arms into branches, her feet so swift a moment ago stuck fast in slow-growing roots; her face is lost in the canopy.

Secret Agent Woman (SAW) presents Crownsprouting  by Gogo Graham, the first solo presentation of the artist and designer’s work in Los Angeles. The exhibition features a new film and poster, clothing and accessories, and a writhing animatronic mannequin. Crownsprouting incorporates aspects of Graham's newest collection, Terminal Investment, presented at New York Fashion Week 2026.

Graham is known for designing clothing specifically for trans women, and her broader visual practice—spanning fashion, painting, and sculpture—draws on references ranging from Renaissance painting to Japanese folklore to horror-film tropes. Central to Graham's practice is a process of individualised, collaborative design—casting each show before constructing a single look, and building garments around a specific model's body and persona using found and repurposed materials, from thrifted fabric to scrap metal. She has dressed figures including Hunter Schafer and Juliana Huxtable, and has cast her friends and community as models in her shows, among them Miss Ma'am She, Star Amerasu, Martine Gutierrez, Mara Hassan, and Puppies Puppies (Jade Guanaro Kuriki-Olivo).

—P. Staff

Gogo Graham (b. 1990, San Jose; lives and works in Brooklyn) received a BS in Textiles from the University of Texas at Austin (2012). Graham's eponymous fashion label has presented at New York Fashion Week (2015–2026) and produced sixteen full collections, including Terminal Investment (Spring/Summer 2027), De Spectaculis (Fall/Winter 2026), and He Covets (Spring/Summer 2026). Solo exhibitions and performances have been held at Sargent's Daughters, New York (2025); 67 Ludlow, New York (2017); Lubov, New York (2023, 2025); and Romeo Gallery, New York (2017). Graham has participated in a residency at BOFFO, Fire Island (2021). Her work has been featured in Artforum, Vogue, W Magazine, Interview Magazine, and Dazed.